The land where the sun sets

We headed to Morocco on a red eye flight on my birthday (via Lisbon) for 9 days of exploring.  We found Morocco different then we expected but overall a great place.  Morocco has a ton of really interesting history which means there are lots of different influences on their culture (West Africa, French, Spanish, Arab, Berbers, Jewish, Muslim, and Christianity to name a few).  Though my Angolan driver referred to it as "white Africa". The people were very nice and welcoming, we felt very safe and I was amazed by the sense of true community they displayed.

First stop Marrakesh for 2 nights.  First impression from the airplane- Morocco is SO green!  I never would have thought that.  They grow olives, grapes and some of the best oranges I have ever tasted. They have annual snowfall and a pretty elaborate irrigation system from the High Atlas mountains.

After arriving we headed to a local spa for a traditional Moroccan hammam and massage.  It was an enjoyable but interesting experience to say the least.  The hammam is a traditional bath that is still widely used today- every Kasbah is required to have one.  It is a heated room (heated with a exterior wood fire and hot water) like a steam room but not as hot.  There are various types but typically it involves what they call black soap which you leave on to soften your skin and then a very, very vigorous scrubbing - they remove a layer of skin and as they say leave you with "baby skin".  Traditional hammam (and what we did) include a lady to scrub you and they are not gentle.  You are then washed again (body and hair) and given an argan oil coating.  We got a massage after which was a great way to start the vacation.  After that we headed out on a night time foodie tour in the pouring rain (we did our first haggling to buy 2 umbrellas).  We learned about spices (including black cumin which clears the sinuses!), baking bread, roasting whole sheep in a underground pit (inside a restaurant).  We tried amazing savory pancakes, roast sheep, cookies and of course mint tea.  Then had a traditional Tagina (Marrakesh tagine which is cooked in ashes and not a flame).

After the black cumin experience!

In the city most houses don't have ovens so people prepare dough and then bring it to a local oven to pay to have it baked.  These "bakeries" bake both commercial and personal bread.  There was a fire in that oven on the left side.

Day two was sunny and a bit cool which was a nice change.  We headed out on a morning guided tour and saw the major sights.  First up Koutoubia Mosque - the tallest building the city and dates from the 12th century.  Only Muslims can enter mosques in Morocco (expect one in Casablanca) so no inside pictures.

Then to the Saadian Tombs - these house the tombs of the former ruling family and are one of the few things that survived the transfer of power since they were hidden.  The women's tombs were all unmarked which I found strange but interestingly they also buried trusted servants in their family tomb area.  We learned about the current King of Morocco (they are a true kingdom in which the king has ultimate power) and found out the current king is the first in their history to take only one wife (and give her the title of Princess) and he passed a law requiring a man to seek approval from his first wife to take another.  

We then saw the Bahia Palace which is a restored palace of a grand vizir of a sultan (a vizier as Jason schooled me is like in Aladdin, the advisor to a king when there are still children and need assistance).

So many types of artistry - that is painted wood and the white is hand carved plaster.   In addition there is amazing tile and metal work.

We had lunch on Jemaa el-fnaa square - the main city square with snake charmers and the like.  We then wandered the city and souk (markets) taking in the sights.   Dinner was a great Indonesian place as we already knew we may be up to our eyeballs in couscous and tangine for the next 8 days (we were right!)

Bab Agnaou- one of the 19 gates in the city wall, dates from the 12th century and provides access to the old royal palace area.  Those are stork nests up top- more to come on that.

Wood fire behind the local hammam, pots against the wall are Tagina cooking in hot ash 

Bread is sacred in Morocco - it is not trash so if you find a piece you are supposed to kiss it and put it somewhere where it can be found - we assume this is why this bread is here

Local hammam- men and women each have their own

Donkeys are everywhere in Morocco- they are used as a method of transport in the old town area to haul items but you see them on the major modern streets as well

Our Riad from the rooftop - it was amazing how once you got inside the building how quiet it was considering it was a busy loud city

Forteleza de Sāo Miguel

Yesterday was Carnival here- they celebrate it similar to Brazil with dancing contests in a parade fashion.  We didn't partake as the crowds are pretty big and not always super safe.  We did have a huge rainstorm last night so I am glad we didn't venture out.

Luanda has quite an impressive fort called Forteleza da Sāo Miguel that sits on a hill overlooking the bay.  We have been there twice - once to check it out and learn and the second time to practice some photography.  Photos are hard in Angola, many people are weary of them and will get mad at you and most places don't allow them - luckily the fort does.

As we have discovered with many historical sites there is not a lot of explanation about the site itself- just some information on what is included at the location.  The fort was built by the Portuguese in 1576 although I think it was a lot smaller to start.  It was built up over the years and served as a major slave trading location at one time.  There was a small museum in the lower section that included some photos and artifacts from the Civil War which was interesting to see as communism played such a large part of that time in their history- lots of Cuba memorabilia!

Overlooking a slum 

Other direction- glittery skyline 

First President of Angola - Antonio Neto

Beautiful Portuguese tile work

This vehicle carried Neto's body during his funeral 

After independence they took down all the Portuguese statues and renamed all the streets.  Some statues survived and were placed in the fort

They seem to like to show the power of the army with damaged inflicted to the rebels

Civil War artifacts - this is the uniform 

They love Castro

Feliz Natal

This was my first holiday season in the southern hemisphere!  Now we did go home for the holidays on December 21 but we did see the ramp up to the season so we can say we experienced most of it.  First off it is HOT- I grew up in Southern California so I understand warm Christmases but this was different - highs are in the 90's plus 75-85% humidity and it is only getting hotter!  So that makes for a weird feeling.  Angolans seem to really enjoy the season, they decorate trees, put up decorations, celebrate Santa and have traditional meals.  Each of those holds a caveat of course!

• Christmas Trees-I was surprised Christmas trees were a "thing" here - there are NO evergreen type trees in Angola but they still have the symbolism which seems to really show the western/European influence.  No surprise all the trees are fake (and pretty terrible) and seen as a luxury item.

Local Christmas tree farm!

• Decorations- they sell tons of decorations in the stores and the city/government puts up lots of lights on the major streets etc.  On one hand it is really pretty but on the other hand it seems like a waste of money as most people don't have access to electricity....
• Santa- they call him Papa Noel and the tradition seems somewhat similar.  Our local grocery store had a full  Santa set up.  Right next to the canned beans and beer and the snow was cut up Styrofoam but it was free!  The Santa suit was a little sad but he was one of the happiest Santas' ever!

• Traditional Meal- as with all cultures they have a traditional meal, just slightly different then ours.  Our driver told me they do turkey and potatoes but my impression was that was for rich people.  His family ate potatoes and bacalhau (dried cod fish).

The other interesting thing that comes with Christmas here is an increase in crime.  We were warned quite a few times about being more vigilant.  I noticed more sales on food items - in this picture it is hard to see the scope but there were about 100 people in line to buy inexpensive rice at one of our local grocery stores.

The week before I came home - I went both beach, golfed, swam in a pool next to the ocean and enjoyed some lovely weather.  Jason and I traveled on the winter solstice from the longest day of the year in Angola to the shortest day of the year in the US.  We spent about 2 weeks in North Carolina with Roux!  She is doing great and was her typically self when she saw us - showed catlike interest :)  We wanted some cool weather and we got what we wished for and then some- a week of below freezing temps and snow (Roux's first snow)!  The transition back to 90+ degree days has been easier then expected.  It is snowing today in Texas and Louisiana and I spent it swimming and running outside!  Reminded me of some of the good things here :)

The Imbonderio (aka Babob) trees are in bloom!  They produce this beautiful flower that leaves behind the fruit called Mucua.  The flower is said to last only 24 hours but since it is pollinated by huge fruit bats I would guess they knock it down.  And the flower stinks!

Refreshing beer after golf at the pool by the ocean

Pond on the golf course - it was really pink!  There is an algae of some type that turns the water pink

Fun to come home to Christmas cards in Angola!  

Miradouro Da Lua

It has been awhile!  We went home in late October for a few weeks.  Jason had to work in California so we took the opportunity to see Heather and Damon in the Bay Area and then headed to my mom's for some early Christmas time.  Jason spent the weekend then headed to work while my mom and I spent some quality time.  Once Jason was done with work we had the opportunity to see my sister, Leora, and her sister-in-law, Annie, in Palo Alto for a lovely day (and amazing Indian food!)  Then we headed to Texas to become citizens of the great state once again (and not pay LA income tax!) and do a stock up.

Nape wine tasting- day started here with my favorite

Ended here, we are too old for this anymore but it was well worth it!

First trip to Alcatraz Island - it was interesting

Got to shoot some guns 

I spent a beautiful day in Yosemite with my Aunt,  always awe-inspiring!

Before I left Luanda I had a few quick adventures.  One morning a group of use wanted some baskets so we took a trip down south toward the Kwansa River in search of the local basket sellers.  Took us a while to find the right seller but we found them and made their day with 3 of us all buying baskets- all the car could hold!  On the way we stopped at the natural "wonder" called Miradoura Da Lua which translate as Moon Vally View.  There used to be water covering this spot and overtime erosion has created these deep crevices in the soil.  This is considered one of the top tourist attractions in Angola...after seeing it I would disagree but then again there is not really anything to see here so I guess if you had to rate something?  But still not really, but it was pretty.  Our driver had never seen it and wanted his picture with it too which made me smile.

Miradouro Da Lua

Mucua - insides of the fruit of the Imbonerio (aka Baobab) tree

Looking toward the ocean

I also have been playing a little golf.  The course is pretty far- about 90 minutes south of the city (past the moon view) but I do have some time on my hands.  The course is really pretty and not too expensive.  There are interesting animals and birds and it is quiet- something you forget about living in a huge loud city.  On the course we have seen huge pigs, horses, kingfishers and the hint of crocodiles (just under the water, kinda shy things!).  It is a nice option to have a few times a month.  Being outside is something we miss.

Pigs on the edge of the course

Gold Course Fairway

Horses on the course from the nearby Polo field

We got back to Luanda 2 weeks ago and I have been sick with a cold and bronchitis, finally feeling better.  I think the malaria drugs make recovery harder...either that or I am getting old :(